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Help with rescued Bare Eyed Cockatoo

Discuss the methods and techniques of clicker training, target training and bonding. These are usually the first steps in training a young parrot.

Help with rescued Bare Eyed Cockatoo

Postby RenettePistorius » Fri Jan 22, 2016 4:44 am

Good day, i want to find out if its possible to train a 7 year old bare eyed cockatoo :cockatoo: :cockatoo: or is his too old. Let me tell you his story in short: He was rescued from people who abused him real bad. He lived with his recent owner for two year and is nou our newest addition to our family. He is absolutely awesome. i can pet him and touch him through the cage bars but i am not allowed to put my hand in his cage, he totally freaks out. He eats certain food out of my hand like peanuts, but he freaks out if i bring closer a apple for instance. He cannot tolerate any toys in his cage he is very scared and starts screaming if we bring anything near the cage. i want to open his cage for some playtime and contact but i am sooo scared he get frighten of me to. what should i do?
RenettePistorius
Parakeet
 
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Re: Help with rescued Bare Eyed Cockatoo

Postby liz » Fri Jan 22, 2016 7:30 am

Welcome to the forum.
Don't put your hand in his cage. Open the door and let him come to you.
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liz
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Re: Help with rescued Bare Eyed Cockatoo

Postby Pajarita » Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:16 pm

You are going to have to wait him out because it takes time to gain back their trust after they've been betrayed. But there are things you can do to help him out:
1. Place his cage against a wall and, if it can be in a corner, even better (the solid walls will make him feel safe).
2. Make sure his perches place his head at the same level as your head (birds feel vulnerable when scary people -predators- loom over them).
3. Establish a strict routine/schedule and follow it faithfully every single day (learning the routines and then been able to predict what will happen and when - and having this prediction come always true gives them a sense of control over their lives and this reinforces self-assurance).
4. Start by putting 'scary' things at the distance where he doesn't react (inuring it's the only way to go). Watch his body language and start approaching his cage (without looking at him directly -only predators do that so turn your head a bit and watch him out of the corner of your eye) in a very casual manner (you can hum, sing or talk softly but not address him directly) with the apple (or any other thing that scares him) in your hand and, as soon as you see him move to the back of his cage or tense up, stop immediately and take one single step back -this is the 'safe' distance. Put the object down at the safe distance (you can also bring two pieces of apple and eat yours standing at the safe distance -always without looking at him). Do this every day without going a step further than the safe distance and without making a big to-do about it. Then, in three or four days, try it again and take the one step closer and see how he reacts, if he doesn't, leave the object there. The trick is to allow him to set the pace without getting stressed out.
5. Don't put your hand in the cage. If it has to stay dirty for a few days, so be it, it won't kill him.
6. Everyday and at the same time (like, for example, after his breakfast) open the door to his cage and walk away. Sit down somewhere a bit far (meaning at a distance where he feels completely comfortable -again, look as his body language, a relaxed bird will move around naturally, preen, eat, etc), watch TV, read a book, work/play in your computer, do a crossword puzzle, whatever - the point is for you to spend time with him in a completely non-threatening way. Sing, whistle, talk to him - you can even read out loud from a book, it doesn't really matter what you say as long as it's said in a soft, sweet voice and, if you can manage a cadence like a sing-song, better still. Cockatoos react very favorably to sweet, soft, high pitched sing-songs -kind of like the day one talks to a baby. Use his name often (don't change the name he had from before even if you hate it -parrots understand and use themselves proper names in the wild and it will reassure him if you use the name he has learned to associate with himself) and praise a lot (nonsense things like "Oh, you are such a good boy! Yes, you are! (Name here) is a good boy! And a pretty bird! Oh, you are such a pretty bird!" that kind of thing) and, every now and then, get up and offer him a treat. And, if he doesn't approach you to take it, leave it where he can get it. The treat is not supposed to be a reward or a bribe, it's supposed to be a gift from you to him and a token of friendship.

You will find that, as the days go by and you stick to your routine (try to do this, at least, twice a day for half an hour each time -if you can manage more, better still), he will begin to feel more comfortable and less scared. Once you see that he is completely relaxed all the time, that he doesn't freak out, back off or even tense up even when you are near and have something 'scary' in your hand, when he routinely comes out of his cage (he will, most likely, climb up to the top of it) OR when he seems eager for you to approach him and talk to him (cockatoos are intensely need of physical touch and that works in our favor when it comes to abused birds) start target training. Slowly though. Don't overdo it and don't rush it because you don't want him to regress. Once you see that he is looking forward to the sessions and that he wants a closer physical relationship (he might even climb down to the floor and follow you around or walk straight up to you) you can start asking him to step up (99% of parrots will step up to your hand from the floor).

Now, you also need to round this up with a solar schedule and a good diet, don't forget about that because toos are highly hormonal birds and you don't want a scared AND hormonal bird on your hands!
Pajarita
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