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Noisy, Anti-Social Green Cheek Conure

Discuss the methods and techniques of clicker training, target training and bonding. These are usually the first steps in training a young parrot.

Noisy, Anti-Social Green Cheek Conure

Postby sillykins » Tue Apr 03, 2018 3:32 pm

I adopted a 3 year old Yellow Sided Green Cheek Conure about 2-3 weeks ago. A nice lady dropped him off at the pet store my brother works at because she could no longer take care of him.

Since then, I have bought a larger new cage. I kept some of his same toys and his bed, but also provided new toys. He gets fresh water and veggies with some fruit every day. He has a seed/pellet mixture with various treats throughout the day.

He never bites, but was more interested being around us when we first got him. He used to like me more than my boyfriend, but ever since I took him to the vet for a DNA test it hasn't been the same. It could be coincidence or even just all in my head. I took him in a cab that day and it seemed fine, but he did seem upset after his nails were clipped and DNA taken. The vet cut all his nails without asking me first. I understand he needed to for the DNA, but I wasn't impressed he didn't ask me first as I would have said no.

At the time I didn't get his wings clipped because he wasn't flying very far, but now he can fly across the apartment which makes it hard for me to have him out with me more often. Every time I bring him out, he tries to run away from me but eventually does step up. Before he used to come running to me and do a cute little hop on to my finger. Once he's out, he flies back to his cage or the closest place he can fly to if I'm not near it. He does have a wing clipping appointment in 2 days so hopefully that will help.

He was also very quiet when we got him. Now he is screaming for most of the day when I'm working (I work at home), especially when my boyfriend isn't home. I've had him in the same room as me but it doesn't help. We have him next to our other parrot who is a Quaker. They have their own cages, but when they are out, the Quaker is interested and wants to be friends but the Conure wants nothing to do with him. We don't force them to interact but we do have their cages side by side.

Another thing the conure does sometimes is tuck his tail in and shake. I don't know why he's doing this.

Any suggestions/advice is welcome.

Thank you :gcc: :monk:
sillykins
Parrotlet
 
Gender: This parrot forum member is female
Posts: 11
Number of Birds Owned: 2
Types of Birds Owned: Quaker Parrot, Yellow Sided Green Cheek Conure
Flight: No

Re: Noisy, Anti-Social Green Cheek Conure

Postby Navre » Tue Apr 03, 2018 3:43 pm

I really hate when a vet clips a nail for blood. It hurts, and it seems like it would invite infection. A GCC is plenty big enough to draw blood from a vein, if the vet is skilled.
Navre
African Grey
 
Gender: This parrot forum member is male
Posts: 1643
Number of Birds Owned: 3
Types of Birds Owned: Turquoise Green Cheek Conure
Timneh African Grey
Hooded Parrot
Flight: Yes

Re: Noisy, Anti-Social Green Cheek Conure

Postby Navre » Tue Apr 03, 2018 3:45 pm

It’s way too soon to expect much from this bird. They usually recommend only interacting with him through the cage bars for the first 30days, or so. He needs time to get used to his new cage, his new home, and to get to trust you.
Navre
African Grey
 
Gender: This parrot forum member is male
Posts: 1643
Number of Birds Owned: 3
Types of Birds Owned: Turquoise Green Cheek Conure
Timneh African Grey
Hooded Parrot
Flight: Yes

Re: Noisy, Anti-Social Green Cheek Conure

Postby Pajarita » Thu Apr 05, 2018 10:00 am

I am sorry I did not see this sooner. First thing you need to do is change his diet because as long as you continue free-feeding him protein food [pellets and seeds] you will have a real hard time getting him back into his cage -and, besides, parrots are not natural seed eaters and cannot consume that much protein all the time or they end up with liver and/or kidney failure. GCCs and quakers are mainly fruit eaters in the wild so they never get that much protein.

And, please, do not clip him. He will dislike you even more and it will not make him tamer - only anxious and depressed [how would you like it if you were living with a giant alien species and they tied your legs in such a way that you could only crawl anywhere?]. Depriving an animal of its main mode of transportation makes them insecure -especially prey animals- but, aside from that, it's very unhealthy for birds because they need to fly in order to keep a healthy respiratory system.

If you keep it to a strict solar schedule with full exposure to dawn and dusk [at least, 1.5 hours of twilight], you can let him out at dawn and he will go back to his cage on its own once you put his breakfast [which I recommend you make it either gloop, mash or chop accompanied by raw produce] in it. Then, in the afternoon [this time of the year, I would do it at around 4 pm], you can let him out again and, once it starts getting darker [I would say around 6 pm if it's a nice sunny day], put the dinner [seeds or pellets but make sure they are not high protein and fat] in and he will go back inside for it. It might not happen the first or even the second day but just wait him out and he will do it.

Then, during the day, establish strict daily routines that don't ever change [you can have more flexibility as time goes by but, at the beginning, the schedule and routines need to be exact] and spend as much time as you can in the same room with him talking, singing, whistling and, every now and then, giving him a treat [but, if you are using seeds, make sure you don't give him a lot of them and don't use sunflowers for now]. If he doesn't take the treat from your fingers, just leave it where he can reach it and walk away because this treat is not a bribe or a reward, it's a gift from you to him, a token of friendship. Once he starts approaching the side of the cage where you are coming from to get the treat from your fingers, you can start target training him [not longer than 5 minutes at a time] from inside the cage. The treat you give him now is a reward but, if he doesn't do it, don't insist too much. Ask him twice and, if he doesn't do it, walk away and come back in ten minutes or so to ask again -but don't do this more than three times. Once he is target trained, you can start letting him out of the cage and do a little training with him. If he flies away from you, let him do it and just ask again in another ten minutes.
Pajarita
Norwegian Blue
 
Gender: This parrot forum member is female
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