Imran Ahmed wrote:Negative reinforcement is when you treat a wrong behaviour as a postive behaviour, signalling the parrot to repeat this mistake again. For e.g. You give him banana to shut him from yelling the whole time. No this is Negative reinforcement. You should ignore him and not give him treats other wise he's going to yell all the time when he wants a banana.
Sorry but this does not make any sense. Negative reinforcement is increasing behavior by taking something away. An example of negative reinforcement at work with a favorable outcome to the trainer:
A parrot is scared of an object and screams when it sees it. The owner shows the object and the bird begins to scream. Eventually it gets tired or distracted and stops. The owner takes away the object to reward the bird for not screaming. The bird was negatively reinforced by the object being removed and no longer causing it discomfort by its presence. The bird thus learns that by not screaming at the sight of the object, it will make it go away faster. Negative reinforcement is basically useful for taming a parrot to hands and novel objects.
Here is an example of negative reinforcement working against the owner:
A parrot bites the owner's hand when he tries to pet the parrot because it is not accustomed to being pet. The owner stops trying to pet the bird whenever it bites. The bird bites more often or just because the owner is nearby. In this case the parrot was negatively reinforced to bite. The parrot learned that by biting, it will make the aversive (approaching hand) more likely to withdraw and thus biting behavior increased.
But to the original poster, if the bird isn't clipped and flees you whenever it is out of the cage, you should tame it either in a small room or in the cage. I outlined the
basics of taming in this article. Once you can get the bird used to accepting treats from your hand, you will be able to use positive (rather than negative) reinforcement and from there on out, training will get quicker and easier. However, it does take a lot of negative reinforcement, desensitization, and patience until you can initially get the bird to take treats from your hand if it is really scared. The good news is that eating is contrary to biting. So as long as you can get treats into its beak, it will be busy eating them rather than biting.
Oh and clipping is absolutely not requisite for parrot training. Beginners may still opt to do it because they don't know what they are doing. However, if the training methods are applied properly, flighted parrots are actually easier to train and less likely to bite than clipped ones.