1) Besides a brief warm up (1-3 tricks just to remind the bird you're about to train), save working on old and easy stuff till last. Do the newest or most demanding tricks while the bird is hungriest. However, a small appetizer is sometimes needed to get things started.
2) When you are 100% positive that the bird knows the tricks, begin using variable ratio reinforcement. It is best that it knows at least 3 tricks before doing this and they should be solid without need for improvement. When you are practicing strictly for the sake of practicing cuing and maintaining the trick, that is when this becomes helpful. Begin rewarding randomly every trick to every other trick. Then you can get to the point where you can mix 3 tricks up for single treat. For example Wave-Shake-Wings, Wave-Wings-Shake, Wings-Shake-Wave, Wings-Wave-Shake, Shake-Wings-Wave, Shake-Wave-Wings. Click every time, reward RANDOMLY at any of the 3 whether it's the first, second, or third in the sequence but don't reward the rest. Have the treat hidden in your hand the other time rather than reaching for it as some point so that the bird can't predict which one you'll choose to reward. It ends up becoming like a game because the bird always tries the stuff cause it never knows when it will get the treat.
Kili is so good at this point that I may have to run through all the cued tricks she knows 2-3 times until she can get a single treat like nod, turn around, shake, hello, wings, wave, hello, shake, nod, wings, turn around, wave, bat, turn around, wings, hello treat. I will click each one so she knows she's been doing everything right but she'll only get one treat for doing all of that right. When the reinforcement ratios get really thin, it begins to look like the bird isn't doing it for treats at all. Also the bird is less likely to forget the trick or give up doing the trick just because you didn't reward it some time for it because it is always working for the possibility of a treat rather than a guaranteed one. But remember, this can only be done once the trick is confidently learned. But then you can make those treats go a much longer way.
Read about how I got Kili to fly over a mile of stop and go recall flight in my apartment for 4 seeds.3) Don't put the bird on your bed (unless you really want to go to bed at night with poopy stains you didn't notice). The places you put your bird on most frequently, it will feel comfortable going to. So if you train it on your kitchen table or bed, it is likely to go to those places on its own whenever and I doubt you want that. You can start target training the parrot from stand to hand held perch, stand to arm, arm to stand, arm to training table (coffee table is usually good and harmless). If these aren't working, practice targeting around inside of its cage more so it doesn't have the opportunity to fly away while it is learning the targeting process.
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