How to discourage biting?

[hlasdf]

Hi all! I'm new to the forum and have asked two other forums about my problem already, with no significant conclusion. I'm hoping this will be my last!
My lovebird has been VERY bitey and has drawn blood multiple times. She usually bites when I'm interrupting something she's doing such as trying to jump off the table, chew my keyboard, eating from the trashcan, being on my shoulder/trying to get on my shoulder, sleeping uncomfortably(for me) in my shirt, etc. I've tried ignoring it, which is very painful, and doesn't seem to stop her biting, or pushing into her beak - she simply walks backward along with my finger or bites harder, or blowing into her face, or putting her back into her cage. There's not much I can distract her with seeing as she never plays with her toys or anything else for that matter. I also heard that I could distract her by starting small training sessions every time she bites, but I dont want her to think that every time she bites, she'll get to have treats. I've tried giving her a foraging box to forage in and it kept her busy for a bit, but as soon as she's finished with it she went straight back to doing any of the following I've listed above. The one tactic I havent tried is putting something bitter on my finger but I don't think she'd be able to taste it if she only used her beak. But even if it did decrease her biting, she'd still feel bitter about me. I can really use all the help/advice I can get. Thank you!

[Eurycerus]

So my dear parrot turned out to be fairly aggressive, resulting in serious wounds (blood dripping and even some scars). I would say it's a combination of a lot of things that stopped her biting me and developed our bond (even though she was in love with me she didn't like me).

One very key thing is that no matter the size of your parrot you need to do basic training at a minimum. I began target training immediately after getting Nika not just because she was a biter but that definitely prompted it too (following Michael's training guide). This provided a way to not get my hand near Nika but still interact and treat her (she never bit the finger with food and still hasn't, probably your parrot won't either). The target training also provided incentive for the parrot to go where I wanted her to go, which could be off your shoulder, to the front of the cage to step up, back in the cage for night time, etc. (side note, I never let Nika on my shoulder, she does occasionally end up there for a brief second after flying there or something but I remove her promptly)

Something else to remember is to not do something when your parrot bites. This doesn't mean let your parrot bite you till you're crying, but it does mean don't punish your parrot by putting her away in her cage (as this could be what the parrot wanted), yelling at her, or something along those lines. Anything you actively do may perpetuate the behavior. I would advise against the bitter taste just because it doesn't seem useful and isn't actually going to result in a behavior change. She'll just bite you someplace else probably. I calmly set her down on her play perch, wait a moment and then have her step up again to show her that biting doesn't do anything productive. Thankfully it's been a while, but I did used to do that.

I also was very careful to not do things that triggered a bite. I must note that Nika did note show many signs before the bite (like hissing, fluffing up, eye pinning, tail fanning), but rather I had to monitor the action that resulted in the bite. She was learning how to fly (still is but has progressed beyond the initial stages) and would bite after she flew anywhere, out of fear probably. So I learned to let her have some moments to herself and then slowly approach and assess her state of mind. I was very wary of anything that triggered a bite and used the target to distract her a lot. I would distract her BEFORE she bit me, thus preventing the bite. Prevention is best!

Good luck!

[hlasdf]

So my dear parrot turned out to be fairly aggressive, resulting in serious wounds (blood dripping and even some scars). I would say it's a combination of a lot of things that stopped her biting me and developed our bond (even though she was in love with me she didn't like me).

One very key thing is that no matter the size of your parrot you need to do basic training at a minimum. I began target training immediately after getting Nika not just because she was a biter but that definitely prompted it too (following Michael's training guide). This provided a way to not get my hand near Nika but still interact and treat her (she never bit the finger with food and still hasn't, probably your parrot won't either). The target training also provided incentive for the parrot to go where I wanted her to go, which could be off your shoulder, to the front of the cage to step up, back in the cage for night time, etc. (side note, I never let Nika on my shoulder, she does occasionally end up there for a brief second after flying there or something but I remove her promptly)

Something else to remember is to not do something when your parrot bites. This doesn't mean let your parrot bite you till you're crying, but it does mean don't punish your parrot by putting her away in her cage (as this could be what the parrot wanted), yelling at her, or something along those lines. Anything you actively do may perpetuate the behavior. I would advise against the bitter taste just because it doesn't seem useful and isn't actually going to result in a behavior change. She'll just bite you someplace else probably. I calmly set her down on her play perch, wait a moment and then have her step up again to show her that biting doesn't do anything productive. Thankfully it's been a while, but I did used to do that.

I also was very careful to not do things that triggered a bite. I must note that Nika did note show many signs before the bite (like hissing, fluffing up, eye pinning, tail fanning), but rather I had to monitor the action that resulted in the bite. She was learning how to fly (still is but has progressed beyond the initial stages) and would bite after she flew anywhere, out of fear probably. So I learned to let her have some moments to herself and then slowly approach and assess her state of mind. I was very wary of anything that triggered a bite and used the target to distract her a lot. I would distract her BEFORE she bit me, thus preventing the bite. Prevention is best!

Good luck!

I suppose I'll try distracting her before the bite, but putting her on a perch whenever she does bite is useless because she simply jumps off onto the floor(she loves being on the floor) even though her wings are clipped.

[marie83]

You have already been given good advice but I just want to add something else. It would be a good idea if you would consider letting her wings grow back in and flight training her. Clipped birds are generally more alot more bitey .

[hlasdf]

You have already been given good advice but I just want to add something else. It would be a good idea if you would consider letting her wings grow back in and flight training her. Clipped birds are generally more alot more bitey .

Yes, I was already planning on letting her wings grow out, although she still seems to glide around everywhere. Thanks

[CaitlinRice413]

[Wayne361]

I will add a bit to first reply, which was a good one. By training your bird you are deepening the bond between you and said bird. THAT is the most important part you should be taking out of the advice. Second to that is the fact that biting WONT get the reaction the bird is looking for. Birds are smart and will try all different means to get what they want. This is all a precursor to positive re-enforcement/training. Personally I would do everything to avoid bites in the first place. Go back to square one basically. Read Micheals training guides and pretend your bird is not socialized and start target training in cage...then progress from there. Again avoid bites by not handling directly. Since your bird is clipped it has no flight reflex in times of fear, thus biting is only recourse. Take things very slow, again work on taming techniques that limit direct handling but work on bond building. The bird will/should see time with you as positive and biting will not be re-enforced/patterned behaviour and become less frequent as time goes on. Handling can be increased as time goes on but dont go too fast in this regard. If a bite is observed/felt than go back and work more on basic taming/bonding techniques. Patience and time should work in both your favour and the birds.

Hope this helps,

Wayne

PS...let the wings grow out. A flighted parrot is a happier, better adjusted, more confident/less fearful, and less BITY than a clipped one....

[bkparrot]

I have a 9 month male Jardine that I have had for about a month or so. I have tried to ignore him and out him back in his cage when he bites. When I take him out again, he starts biting again and growling noises. Is it correct to just start from beginning and act like the bird has no training?

[Eurycerus]

Yes. I personally would start gaining trust and bond with you're parrot by working with your parrot in his cage. I personally would do daily target training for many days even a week. Don't force him to do something he doesn't want. By asking him to do something he can do while feeling safe will help gain his trust. And you will be able to give him lots of treats and praise! Then you can work on step up for treats and step back down into his cage for treats. This incremental approach worked very well for me.

[CaitlinRice413]