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Wild Ringneck

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Wild Ringneck

Postby Dorra » Sat Aug 25, 2012 4:02 am

Hello, hope every one is ok :)

i am new to parrots world, i hope to get from expert some way to make my parrot better friend.

i have this parrot, please see here
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uspvl4p1ribjhk8/IMG_0437.MOV

it is very wild, not able even to touch him/her

the only thing i can do is to feed him with my hand but when eat, he/she always aware from my hand, he/she keeps his/her eyes on me when i move, even move my hand.

i tried once to hold in my hand, when do that, it starts screaming and biting until i release him/her. when i pet on, there is no sound, but try to get out of my hand if i stopped.

what i want first to make him/her love me

please help
thanks
Dorra
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Re: Wild Ringneck

Postby pennyandrocky » Sat Aug 25, 2012 6:14 am

first you have to get her used to your hands by holding them out without moving and let her explore on her own once she sees your hands are not a threat to her she'll come around.
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Re: Wild Ringneck

Postby liz » Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:39 am

He/she is a beauty.

All parrots seem to have a natural fear of hands because hands can be mean to a little bird. Some people grab birds instead of letting them come out on their own.

Myrtle was a year old rescue from an awful place. She was afraid of hands so I kept them behind my back. When I had to put food and water in the cage I kept my palms down and did not look at her. Myrtle gave me kisses and jumped on my shoulder long before I could touch her.

You don't say his age or where you got him.
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Re: Wild Ringneck

Postby Dorra » Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:42 am

thanks for your help

what do you mean:
holding them out without moving

is there special kind of gloves to use to protect my hand or can use small towel?

thanks again
Last edited by Dorra on Sat Aug 25, 2012 10:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
Dorra
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Gender: This parrot forum member is male
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Number of Birds Owned: 0
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Re: Wild Ringneck

Postby Dorra » Sat Aug 25, 2012 10:00 am

liz wrote:He/she is a beauty.

All parrots seem to have a natural fear of hands because hands can be mean to a little bird. Some people grab birds instead of letting them come out on their own.

Myrtle was a year old rescue from an awful place. She was afraid of hands so I kept them behind my back. When I had to put food and water in the cage I kept my palms down and did not look at her. Myrtle gave me kisses and jumped on my shoulder long before I could touch her.

You don't say his age or where you got him.


Thanks for the info
i am really new, and do not know the how old is he/she :irn:
i got it from bird market, 3 weeks ago

thanks
Dorra
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Re: Wild Ringneck

Postby pennyandrocky » Sat Aug 25, 2012 10:31 am

when i get a new bird i sit on a chair with a back and just lay my hand out palm up and they come and explore my fingers mya :corella: used to wiggle them to see how they worked, she would tap my knuckles with her beak,and she would taste them.penny :gcc: just rubs his face and beak on my hands or if curl my fingers he'll just stick his head in for a quick nap.
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Re: Wild Ringneck

Postby liz » Sat Aug 25, 2012 12:37 pm

Dorra - there is no telling what that bird has been through. He was probably raised by a no touch breeder, sold to someone who could not tame him then sold to a bird broker.

Can he fly? If he can let him come out of his cage on his own and get tired. I have found that once they are tired they will step up to be put back to the safety of their cage.

If he can't fly put him on the floor to adventure. If possible put the whole cage on the floor so he can come out by himself.

I don't wear gloves. I have found that they have to make contact with skin. With a beak that size I wear long sleeves and long pants.

Prepair for a bite just in case you get it. Do not jump, make a noise or show any fear. If you do he will learn that he can control you with a bite.
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Re: Wild Ringneck

Postby Polarn » Sat Aug 25, 2012 2:19 pm

About gloves, sure you can probably find gloves that will provide sufficient protection from a beak. However I'd say covering your hands with gloves or a towel makes for pretty much no use. Sure if you HAVE to grab an untame bird for a vet check or whatever. Then their usable. But as taming goes, I'd say forget about em. There are no reason for you to grab a bird during innitial taming hence you shouldn't have to get bit. If the bird bites your most likely pushing it, sure change of food/water has to be done. But if you can "man up" and take a bite without stopping what your doing when changing food and water, no sound, no flinch. I can almost bet you most birds that bite when you intrude will only bite you once or twice again before it figures out it is pointless and will rather move away from you than chasing you off while doing chores, this assumes however you have a big enough cage for the bird to actually move away from you.
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Re: Wild Ringneck

Postby Dorra » Sat Aug 25, 2012 4:25 pm

pennyandrocky wrote:when i get a new bird i sit on a chair with a back and just lay my hand out palm up and they come and explore my fingers mya :corella: used to wiggle them to see how they worked, she would tap my knuckles with her beak,and she would taste them.penny :gcc: just rubs his face and beak on my hands or if curl my fingers he'll just stick his head in for a quick nap.


you are right, but this happens when the bird accept what he see and feel it is ok, but mine i hardly touch, my bird is always watching carefully my moves, even while sleeping, he wakes up and see what i am doing :)


liz wrote:Dorra - there is no telling what that bird has been through. He was probably raised by a no touch breeder, sold to someone who could not tame him then sold to a bird broker.


i think so :roll:


liz wrote:Can he fly? If he can let him come out of his cage on his own and get tired. I have found that once they are tired they will step up to be put back to the safety of their cage.


yes, he can fly, the first day it was in small cage, then i bought large one to let him move easily.
the next day inside home i opened to let him fly freely, at night, he came back to cage and slept, the next day he hardly go to cage, in fact when he want to eat or drink, he watch if the area is safe so no one close the cage while inside. when he feels someone there, even if he is so hungry, he never come, then i let some food outside, then he was happy, but he does not want to let any one close to him.


liz wrote:If he can't fly put him on the floor to adventure. If possible put the whole cage on the floor so he can come out by himself.


i cut his feather to make him close as possible to us, but no way, he climb the curtains to stay on the top.


liz wrote:I don't wear gloves. I have found that they have to make contact with skin. With a beak that size I wear long sleeves and long pants.


but no gloves, means damaging my hands, i tried to use transparent labels so they see nothing my hand so if he bite, he think it bites my hand and that does not hurt me, some time works, some time i lose :(


liz wrote:Prepair for a bite just in case you get it. Do not jump, make a noise or show any fear. If you do he will learn that he can control you with a bite.


i do that, but i need simple way to make it work.


Polarn wrote:About gloves, sure you can probably find gloves that will provide sufficient protection from a beak. However I'd say covering your hands with gloves or a towel makes for pretty much no use. Sure if you HAVE to grab an untame bird for a vet check or whatever. Then their usable. But as taming goes, I'd say forget about em. There are no reason for you to grab a bird during innitial taming hence you shouldn't have to get bit. If the bird bites your most likely pushing it, sure change of food/water has to be done. But if you can "man up" and take a bite without stopping what your doing when changing food and water, no sound, no flinch. I can almost bet you most birds that bite when you intrude will only bite you once or twice again before it figures out it is pointless and will rather move away from you than chasing you off while doing chores, this assumes however you have a big enough cage for the bird to actually move away from you.


my bird always bites, always do noise when hold, hardly make sound when it is alone, and i did changed the cage for better, changed food to better ones and so on, but no response.

i feel you saying to me, try to get another one :)

thanks all for your time
Dorra
Parakeet
 
Gender: This parrot forum member is male
Posts: 5
Number of Birds Owned: 0
Flight: Yes

Re: Wild Ringneck

Postby Polarn » Sat Aug 25, 2012 4:41 pm

I'm not saying you should try get another of anything, I just don't get what you need to grab it for or why you need to hold the bird, especially if it is flighted and actually doesn't need you to carry it. All I'm saying is brace yourself to get bitten, it is something that will happen all of us at one time or another. And that you mIght need to slow things down with your bird, there is no reason to touch it at all before he starts to touch you or explore who you are, target training can be done without touching the bird to have a means for getting the bird to move to a specific spot without having to grab it.

If I were you I would spend my time around the bird talking, reading out loud, singing softly etc. allowing him to come out of the cage. But definitely not feed outside of the cage and if possible not closing the cage as he eats, ever. The cage is supposed to be his territorial, a place he should want to be and a place where he can always feel safe. This means enrichment, food, etc should all be present in the cage to teach it that even if the cage is open it is okay to go in to play with toys without someone cornering him or closing the door (sometimes you will have too, but I would avoid doing it straight away, let it spend a good 5-10minutes in the cage before it is closed.

What I would not do is chase him or grab him, move to quickly in the room. I would definitely not clip the feathers of a bird that's biting.
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