paper_lantern wrote:I think everyone has a different opinion on what constitutes abuse when it comes to parrots. I'm pretty strict with my definition. I think a small cage, no toys, or no human interaction besides cleaning the cage and changing food constitutes as abuse.
What do you think?
Absolutely agree, Lantern. A parrot's MAIN needs are (1) Cage Maintenance. (2) Interaction. (3) Nutrition. If not taken care of well especially with these three basic things, birds can have acting out behavior, like plucking out their own feathers, and chewing on their skin giving themselvs soars. Which would be signs of an abused, neglected bird, depressed bird as well, and they can get sickly.
First of all the cage needs to be big enough to where when the bird spreads it's wings, the wings do not touch the sides of the cage. A bird can get diseases from a dirty cage. From the food that dries on the cage and from poo on the cage. These things need to be kept clean routinely. They can also get fatal infections from their own poo. One has to think, "Would I like to live in this mess?" No. Then don't make my parrot live in it either. One of the ways a parrot cleans their beak from the food after they eat is they wipe their beak on the cage, perches, and bowl rims (an bowl holders at the rims of the bowls, depending on the way the cage is built). Dried old food grows bacteria. These things have to be cleaned off at least once every two to three weeks on the dried food, and watched for. As concerning with their poo, IMMEDIATELY, anytime you see any poo has fallen on cage perches. Cage perches can be installed in a way so that they're not "overlapping" other perches or other things in the cage - keeping in mind that where ever the bird stands and perches, they're poo is going to fall under them from their hiney in that spot. This greatly helps minimize the poo getting on perches. Black and white only (not color) news paper should be lining the bottom of the cage to catch the poo, and changed at a minimum of every two days. Don't let it go passed two days without changing it. Colored news paper ink can kill birds, so only black and white. And even with black and white, if they go down and be chewing the paper up, then you cannot put paper in there; you have to remove it. It's not healthy for them. You can train your bird not to chew on the paper. But if they don't take to the training, then you have no choice but to not have paper, and then you will have to resort to cleaning the bottom of the cage daily or at least every two days. Mine does well with the paper, and any time he has gone down there and started trying to chew on it, I've shewed him away, so he doesn't do it much at all. Also, when the bird goes down to the flooring and tries to get food off the flooring, which has fallen on top of the paper, train him not to do that either. This is because if food has fallen in the poo, and he eats it, he can get a fatal infection. I shew my bird away from that too, any time he goes down there to get anything, or I distract his attention to something else, like a toy, or another piece of good food I put in his bowl or something. I be sure and change the paper frequently, especially when he eats, so that when it's his eating time, if he goes down to the flooring to get any food off the paper, there is no poo there at that time, etc. All spoiled food should be cleaned out from the cage pretty much daily also. Change the paper.
Overhall major thorough cage cleaning should be done every three to six months.
Toys are a part of cage maintenance. But they are also a very important thing. They keep the bird entertained when you're away like when you're working. Birds spend approx. 50 to 75 percent of their time in the wild chewing bark off trees (chewing wood). This helps their motor skills, beak and jaw muscles, and helps keep their beaks trim. If their beaks get too long, they can't pick up their food with their beak; they will have trouble doing that. A large part of a birds activity, and to keep them occupied, is they like to chew things up. Play with things. And foraging (challenging with things to dig food out). These things also are a large part of their motor skills and development, entertainment, etc. Just think if you were sitting there all alone with nothing to do couped up in a cage until someone came home from work to let you out to play? There are hanging chew toys for the cage, which are hung toward the middle of the cage, and by perches so the bird can reach them and is able to stand on a perch while he is chewing on them and playing with them. If there are no toys, there will be a very bored, stir crazy bird. For this reason, also, the toys need to be changed out periodically, so that the bird doesn't get bored with them. Keep things interesting and varied for him. You will notice a bird will stop chewing on partly chewed toys sometimes. That's because they're either already spent, or the bird is bored with them and as soon as you put new toys in there, the bird will start chewing and playing with them again.
On the interaction, a bird is not meant for a show piece, to just put their cage in a corner of the room, and say to people, "Oh that's my bird!", and then ignore the bird and have not much to do with it otherwise. They also get sickly from lonliness. They need interaction and conversation. They need to be out of the cage AT LEAST two hours a day. Playing. With their "foot" toys, which you can put on top of the cage (if it's like a play-top cage), or purchase a parrot tree stand from a parrot shop as an alternate that the bird can climb on, stand on, and perch on. On these tree stands, they have hanging chew toys for the bird. I put my bird on his tree or let him out to go on top of his cage, and he plays, while I do my chores around the house, etc., too. Then every so often, as I'm passing by, I stop and play with him a few seconds and talk to him, and interact with him, give him treats, etc. This is also a large part of how the bird bonds with you. This is also a large part of how they learn to talk with you, how they learn what words mean, etc. Anyone who does not do things like this, will have a lonely depressed bird. They get depressed from lonliness as such, and they can get sick and die from it. This is a part of their very nature. They are flock animals. You will always see for example birds outside in flocks of other birds. Never alone. They MUST have interaction.
Feeding bowls must be washed clean daily, and food changed to fresh daily. Not leaving any spoiled food in their bowls. When washing, birds can NOT do soap. They can get sick from it, so if you use a mild soap to wash the bowls, be sure ALL soap residue is GONE. Cold water does that very well, you know that "sqeeky clean" you get when you rinse soap off with cold water. You will be able to feel this, as well as if there is any soap residue left or not.
As far as nutrition, well it's like people can not live on rice alone. We would be mal-nourished. Birds cannot live on seeds and nuts alone. They would die of what's called a "seed starvation diet"; mal-nourished, in about only seven years. A healthy bird will live approx 75 to 80 years, and you have to "Will" them to someone. Birds nutrition requires well-roundedness. They also require fruit and greenery. With no seasonings. And only boiled or baked. Never ever fried. Only fresh from produce section in grocery store. I've also found that some of the 99 cent only stores have fresh produce, and you can get alot of the good stuff there for your parrot too; that's where I started buying some of mine. Bless God, he has made a way for me to take care of my baby in today's economy. If 99 cent store, you have to be careful and get the good ones, some of it has gone bad and they may have not had a chance to clear the bad stuff off the shelving yet at times.
Fresh Food List For Parrots
Healthy Fresh Fruits For Parrots
No to Pesticides! Choose Organic!
Always wash fruit with a good fruit wash!
Apples without the seeds (seeds toxic)
Banana
Blueberries
Cantaloupe
Cherries (pitted)
Grapes (seedless)
Guava
Mango
Nectarines
Oranges
Papaya
Peaches (remove the pit)
Pears (remove the pear core)
Plums
Pomegranate
Prunes
Raisins
Strawberries
Raspberries
Healthy Fresh Vegetables
Asparagus
Beans (cooked only)
Beets
Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Carrots
Cauliflower
Corn (corn on the cob is fun for parrot enrichment)
Chard
Cucumber (must peel off skin, due to wax on skin)
Hot peppers
Kale
Kiwi (peeled)
Kale
Pea Pods
Red Leaf Lettuce
Sprouts (Alfalfa, Broccoli, Bean)
Squash Cooked ( Acorn, Butternut, and Pumpkin)
Sweet and Baked Potato / Yams Cooked
Zucchini
Other Healthy Foods To Offer
Bran Squares
Brown Rice
Cous Cous
Eggs (hard boiled)
Fresh nuts ( leave in shell for enrichment play )
Meats (chicken & fish only, boiled or baked with absolutely no seasoning at all)
Millet
Oatmeal
Pilaf
Shredded Wheat
Foods To Avoid Feeding Your Parrot
Avocado
Caffeine
Candy and Chocolate
Junk foods (chips, cookies, pastries)
Large amounts of dairy products
Mushrooms
Onions
Please note that with all fresh fruits, vegetables, and other foods, your parrot should not be given anything with salt, sugars, chocolates or caffeine. All fruits and vegetables should
be washed with a fruit and vegetable cleaner from your local supermarket. It really does make a difference! Some fruits and vegetables such as apples, strawberries, and cantaloupe may
contain extremely high amounts of pesticides. This can vary depending on the time of year and country that the foods are being imported from. It is strongly recommended to feed organically grown foods. Caution: Remember to remove any uneaten fresh food from the cage before it spoils.
Maria