SnowPhoenix wrote:Pajarita, I agree on the weighing before feeding but your advice on preparing my almost 5-week-old chick onto soft foods as well as pellets being completely unsuitable for parrots seem to contradict the advice given to me by the majority of members on another forum I frequent to, as well as the advice given to me by my avian vet's. Pellets shouldn't make up the entire diet, but based on my understanding, if the bird accepts it, then it should be offered in minimal amounts. Also, my chick is simply too young to be weaned. According to my research, reading and asking around, conure chicks usually begin weaning between 8 to 10 weeks. It's up to you if you disagree with my statement since I'm considered 'new' to parrotkeeping, but I don't think I'm entirely wrong either.
Yes, you will find that most people will tell you that pellets are the best option (same as you will find lots of people who claim that their bird, kept in a cage all day long by himself is happy). But, in my personal opinion, those people have not done any real research on parrots natural diets or they would not say such a thing. Wild parrots don't eat anything dry. Nothing, zilch, nada! Their diet is plant material and this has a water content between 85 (leaves, buds, flowers) to 95% water (fruits) - pellets have a maximum of 10%. People say that they can always drink more water but parrots are not hard-wired by nature to drink throughout the day or a lot at any given time (they are crepuscular drinkers and they only take a few sips) because they are prey animals which main predator-avoidance mechanism is flight (so they are high up where the predators cannot reach them) so, going to ground and putting their head down to drink from a stream is a VERY dangerous thing to do - so nature evolved them to eat a natural diet that is so high in moisture, they can easily derive the greatest majority if not all their hydration needs from it. This is not my opinion, it's a scientific fact. The problem with feeding dry stuff to an animal which nature evolved with a digestive track designed for high moisture is well known to cat owners who fed just kibble to their cats and ended up with kidney damage (a common problem with pet birds, especially the small species) because of chronic subclinical dehydration (and no, you can't tell if the bird is mildly dehydrated... as a matter of fact, I would be hard pressed to tell if a bird is very dehydrated, much less mildly, without blood work!).
Now, as to nutrition... pellets are, basically, ground up grains so, obviously, feeding them whole grains is not in question, right? The difference between the grains in pellets and the grains we use for the gloop is that 1) our grains are human grade and organic while the only pellet that offers this is Tops, the rest all use feed quality and most are not organic. 2) the pellets grains are raw, ground and dried up - gloop grains are cooked (which makes them more digestible -consider that these grains are not part of their natural diet so making them more digestible is desirable) whole (much more fun for a parrot to eat) and infused with water (so the water content resembles their natural diet much more closely than pellets). Then you have which grains... we don't use soy (Tops don't have soy, either). Soy is, by far, the cheapest source of protein available. It is also a known allergen which has goitropic and estrogenic side effects. Personally, I do not feed soy to any of my animals and, if you do a bit of research about other pets food, like dogs and cats, you will find that only the very cheapest brands have soy -which should make more people think about feeding it to their birds, if you ask me! Same thing with artificial colors, flavors, etc. The pet industry is completely unregulated so we, pet owners, use whatever knowledge we gather from studies to 'move' the industry in the right direction by simply manipulating demand. When people started not buying the food on the shelves and feeding their dogs and cats homemade food because they realized that soy, artificial colors, etc was not good for them, the industry started producing dog and cat food without them - unfortunately, it hasn't quite reached that point with parrots food.
Now, as to vitamins/minerals added to pellets. The only pellets that have natural ones (food-derived) is Tops, all the other ones have man-made ones and there are many studies that tell us that the lab-made ones are not utilized as efficiently by the body PLUS there is a certain synergy which actually increases their efficacy between different ones found in plants which cannot be achieved by lab-made.
Avian vets don't study parrot nutrition. Period. Their text books have the smallest section on avian nutrition - and it's completely understandable as there are 8,700 species of them with completely different diets from nectar to insects to seeds to fish, etc. It would take something the size of the British Encyclopedia to cover them all! The section they do have (I have three avian medicine texts) is mostly geared toward fowl because veterinary medicine is basically split into two different practices: small animals (dogs and cats) and farm animals (which, of course, includes chickens, turkeys, etc) so they teach what most vets would use (remember that parrot keeping is actually a very recent fad, same as avian vets). So, unless they own multiple parrots for a period of time, avian vets don't have any personal experience or formal education on parrot nutrition and mostly go by what the industry tells them. People talk about studies done by Dr. Roudybush and Dr. Harrison's experience but the truth is that the Roudybush studies were extremely short term (11 months to a year) so useless for the long term - and Harrison's based his recipe on chicken feed!
The other problem with pellets is that none is made with exact nutritional values (not even Tops). If you look at the labels, you will see that all of them, without exception, have protein values or 'more than', 'greater than', etc. There isn't a single one that has a value that one can use as reference because 18 is higher than 17 but so is 25% and, if you are feeding, say, an amazon, you can't even feed 17% all year round because that is the protein they need ONLY when breeding. The question that begs asking of manufacturers is WHY? Why can't they give us an exact value when people food all has exact values? Personally, I think it's because soy is cheap and it's less expensive for them to simply make sure there is a minimum amount than an actual one (feed grains are also sold with a minimum protein content -I worked in a grain company for 10 years). Pellets are sold by bird size but an African gray needs more protein than an amazon although it's the same size - and parrots need lower protein during the resting season but there are no season pellets, are there? Protein is necessary for life. But high protein ends up been stored in the liver as a fatty nodule (fatty liver disease) and causes the kidneys to end up with too much uric acid which messes them up.
Last but not least: space! You would say what does space have to do with diet? But it's actually quite obvious once you think about it. Pellets are dry and compressed -picture one of those particle boards made out of compressed sawdust- thereby occupying very little space in the crop and birds always eat enough to fill it up. Now picture the particle board submerged in water for a while... it swells up a lot, doesn't it?. Well, this is another advantage of gloop over pellets! When you feed pellets, you need to measure what you feed all the time or you will end up with a fat bird because the calories in them are 'concentrated' but you can feed as much gloop as they want and more and they will not get fat because they fill up on mostly water (which is what nature intended for their diet to begin with!).
Now, pellets are, by far, the easiest option. No doubt about that! But the easiest is not necessarily the best, is it? I mean, McDonalds is also the easiest option for kids but no responsible parent is going to feed his kid McDonalds all the time... And that is the difference between what most people recommend and what we recommend: the easiest versus the best option.
OK, so I told you why I think that gloop is better than pellets so why don't you tell me why you think that you are not 'entirely wrong' that pellets are the best for a baby bird (and I forgot to mention that pellets are way too hard for a baby to eat comfortably and that, whether you choose gloop as a soft food or not, you still have to offer some kind of soft food)