No, my dear, you are not too late and, although I understand why you would feel bad about the problem, believe me when I tell you that this is not really your fault! Parrots are extremely difficult animals to keep healthy and happy - and, when we first started the pet parrot fad about 30 years ago, nobody had a single clue as to how to care for them properly - not even the people who were breeding and selling them for the pet trade. I, myself, have made so many mistakes with mine that I feel like kicking myself! And, as Liz and Wolf mentioned, we all went through this learning process - every single last one of us! The important thing -and what separates the 'good' parrot keepers from the 'bad' ones- is to learn and to act on our new knowledge instead of just keep on doing the wrong thing.
I am not anywhere near Florida (I am in Northern New Jersey) so I can't help you finding a good avian vet in your area but I am sure there are some - and, if you cannot find one, use one that treats exotics because, sometimes, they are either as good or even better than board certified avian vets.
As to the changes... You need to open the shades BEFORE the sky begins to get any light in the morning, not one hour after - this is because it is that different light that happens before sunrise that sets the internal 'stop watch' on so it can start measuring the number of hours in the day. It is the different spectrum distribution of the light that does it - same with sunset (notice how everything looks a bit rosey and honey-colored these times of the day? Well, that is what they need). And, yes, the light that comes out of the TV screen is not good (there are studies done with people and it has been shown that this 'blue' light inhibits production of melatonin -the hormone that makes us drowsy and allows us to fall asleep among many other things it does for us -and the birds). For during the day, you should put a good quality full spectrum light in the ceiling fixture of the room where he is kept. The specifications for this light is a CRI (Color Rendering Index) as close to 100 as you can find BUT with a Ktemp (Kelvin Temperature) between 5000 and 5500 because this is the light that most resembles the natural light of the sun. I am now using Dr. Mercola's:
http://shop.mercola.com/product/30w-com ... 93,1,0.htm) but I am considering switching to these for the winter:
http://www.topbulb.com/50w-12v-mr16-hal ... over-glassThe Ktemp on the last one is lower than 5000 but the CRI is higher and I am thinking that it will be better for the winter to have a Ktemp a bit lower (the higher the Ktemp the more it brings them into breeding condition). I had found a perfect one a while ago but, because I had to get a new computer, I lost the reference I had saved and now I can't find it!
Just to give you an idea of the schedule, right now (it changes as the seasons change), I am turning on the ceiling lights at 9 am and off at 3 pm because I am feeding them dinner at 5:15 pm (I like to give them an hour or of sunset after dinner so they have plenty of time to go to roost as slowly as they feel like it).
Now, on to the diet issue. I don't not feed pellets and, supposedly (and that is a BIG 'supposedly'!), they are the only nutritionally complete food there is for birds. I have been doing research on parrots natural diets for over 20 years and reached the conclusion long ago that pellets are not the best dietary option for them (several reasons: dryness, overprocessing, ingredients, lack of control over actual protein intake, etc). I feed mine gloop (a dish of lightly cooked whole grains and pulses mixed with chopped veggies) and raw produce for breakfast and all day picking and a good quality seed/nut mix for dinner. I have found that this diet, with the addition of some vitamins mixed in the food or water once or twice a week, is best for them. I have two amazons with liver damage and one that came to me with gout on her feet and they are all doing great on this diet! Besides, they LOVE gloop! If you look in the diet section, you will find a few gloop recipes - from a very simple one made out of Kashi's 7 whole grain pilaf to a more complicated one where you get all the grains separately (I do the more complicated one but, in truth, is no longer 'complicated' to me because I've been doing it for so long that I can make it in my sleep
). I make a BIG batch of grains and pulses, freeze half of it and mix the other half with the frozen veggies after the grains cool (frozen veggies are, next to fresh picked from the plant, the produce that retains the most nutrition). Once everything is mixed, I split it into daily portions and put it in individual freezer baggies which I thaw in the fridge and allow to become room temperature (in the winter, I have to nuke it for a few seconds) before I serve it (I also add stuff like spices and/or unsweetened grated coconut, raisins, etc so as to change the flavor daily).
A word of caution: don't expect a sudden change, it won't happen. A messed up endocrine system takes a long time to go back 'on track' and start following the seasons as it should so don't despair if you don't see him/her getting better soon. Keep at it and it will happen. I can promise you that! And don't worry if he/she doesn't eat the gloop the first few days. This is normal. I have transitioned hundreds of birds to gloop and they all learned to love it. What you can do to make things easier on him/her is to make a basic gloop with only grains and pulses and mix it with a sprinkle of seeds from his usual mix (this is to help him identify the grains as 'good food'. Now, for pulses, you can use lentils and beans BUT, when it comes to beans, try to use only the white ones because they are the lowest in a bad lectin beans have (the kidney beans been the highest, see here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kidney_bean_, and, if you are going to cook them yourself, make sure you don't just simmer them, they need to boil for 30 minutes to kill this lectin.
Start the steady routine as soon as possible - parrot thrive on routine, it gives them a sense of control over their own lives, something we completely take away when we make them our pets and they have to depend on us for everything - and something that is contrary to their nature because, in the wild, each parrot decides for itself when, how and why. Always allow the bird to go back to its cage of its roosting spot at noon (all birds rest at noon, it's part of their circadian biorhythms) -sometimes they nap, sometimes they just chill on their own but this 'time to themselves' is important for them.