No, of course that I did not mean to imply that you were doing anything wrong... I could tell from the very beginning that you had done a lot of research and worked very hard putting his diet together. I also think that one of the hardest things about keeping parrots is to feed them right! I've been doing research since 1994 and I am still constantly learning about it... The thing is that most of the information we get is vague and scant to say the least! You can go to ornithological places and read about a parrot's natural diet but all they give you is a list that reads something like: fruits, buds, flowers, nuts, seeds, etc - they never tell you how much of each of these things they eat or what, exactly, they mean when they say seeds or nuts of even fruits! Because, even though fruits are all fruits, there are all different kinds of fruits, aren't they? And there are seeds which are low in protein and seed which are high (like quinoa, for example). And who would think of checking the moisture content of any of these items? We might think of checking the protein and fat content but the moisture?!
People think that feeding dry food is OK because the parrot will increase the water intake but they don't take into consideration that parrots are prey animals which are meant by nature to derive almost ALL their hydration needs from their diet and which are programmed (again, by nature) to drink very little and only at twilight (this is survival mechanism as predators vision is impaired at these times so they are the safest times to go to ground and drink). To make things worse, some people feed dehydrated produce and use bottles for their parrots water - a system that delivers a drop at a time and a very dangerous thing to do to a bird because:
a) it's VERY hard for anybody to determine from a simple physical examination if a bird is dehydrated (you can't use the methods we have with mammals, you can't check their gums or inside their beak because they don't have any saliva; you can't pull their skin away from their flesh to check the resiliency/bounce, etc)
b) as birds are wired to drink only a certain number of 'gulps', if they only have access to a drop at a time, they would never be able to hydrate themselves properly
c) the 'wetness' of poop is one of the first symptoms we have but parrots that are chronically mildly dehydrated will not show, say, polyuria even when they are suffering from it because the body will gladly absorb any extra liquid to balance itself out when dehydrated.
Now, this is what we do know. We know that parrots derive almost all of their hydrating needs from their food and we know that they eat plant material - different kinds like fruits (85 to 95% water), leaves, buds, flowers (80 to 85% water), seeds, grains and nuts BUT, and here is another kicker, these are green seeds, grains and nuts! They are taken from the plant so they have higher moisture than the ones we get in the stores which have been dried to extend shelf life.
So, as you can see, proper moisture content becomes something that we need to take into consideration... And this is not only because one should always strive to emulate their natural diet but also because we have learned from our experience with other animals that, when you dramatically reduce the amount of moisture in an animal's diet, eventually, you will end up with an animal that develops kidney issues. Cats are a great example. We thought that kibble was just fine for them but we now know that it's not, that if you feed kibble all the time, you will end up with a cat with kidney problems - why? Because, although cats have been domesticated for thousands of years, they descend from a desert animal which derived almost all his hydration needs from its diet (obligate carnivore - with meat having a water content of an average of 75%). See what I mean?
Now, as to protein. Not all protein is created equal. Animal protein has more amino acids than any vegetal source of it - it also has much more fat and the bad one, too! Parrots are, with a very few exceptions, herbivores so they don't have the enzymes to actually digest animal protein correctly. Then you have the bad cholesterol that you find in animal protein... Parrots in the wild do not consume anything with bad cholesterol so nature did not give them a digestive mechanism to clean it out of their system. People talk about them eating insects and they are right that they do eat some but insect flesh has virtually no fat and no bad cholesterol. Ergo, when you feed a parrot, say, chicken or eggs, you are feeding too much protein, too much fat and, unfortunately, bad cholesterol of which a huge percentage will remain inside the bird's body. I've had birds with high cholesterol that ended up dying from it and we have a member, Navre, who adopted Tanya, an Hispaniolan amazon, with high cholesterol - and despite his excellent care of her and hugely expensive medical treatment ended up dying from it.
I know of the eclectus pyramid... but, taking into consideration that the breeder who first put it together (Laurella Desborough but she no longer breeds them, I think) was never able to keep her birds from dying young, I would not swear by it.
Your diet is very comprehensive and varied, and that is real good!
But I would eliminate the eggs, the coconut oil (it's red palm oil that has the betacarotene but I don't use it, either - coconut oil is not even a real oil, it's a fat -anything that is not liquid at room temperature is a fat- and it's a whooping 91% saturated fat!!) and the sprouts. Sprouts are great in terms of general nutrition but they are also high in protein so they should only be fed during breeding season and not all year round. You could feed them as long as you don't feed any other source of protein that same day... and you can apply the same principle to all the other protein sources - with this I mean that everything that you feed with the exception of what I listed above is good food but, if you feed whole grains, nuts, seeds, sprouts, beans, etc all in the same day, you will end up with too much protein for an ekkie because all birds are programmed to crave protein and gorge on it when they find it. I would feed just produce with very little cooked whole grains for all day picking and give him higher protein for dinner (maybe a gloop with cooked whole grains, some sprouts and one single nut or two). I would also do a 'breeding' season diet and a 'resting' season diet because ekkies are very prone to getting overly hormonal in captivity (the rich food and their naturally long breeding season) so I would be very careful about that.
Oh, I almost forgot. About Wolf's rice comment - yes, US rices all have too much arsenic, even the organically grown ones, because it's in the soil. I only use Lundberg's red and/or black rice -they are organic, both are whole grains, both are much more nutritious than brown or white rice and they are the lowest in arsenic you can find. The other alternative is brown basmati rice grown either in India or in Thailand.