by Pajarita » Tue May 21, 2013 5:00 pm
Lord, I can't post all my research. For one thing, lots of the studies are only accessible if you suscribe or become a paying member so although I can read them, I can't post them. And, for another, what I feed my birds is still is a work in progress. I am constantly researching and tweaking their diet and supplements here and there but, basically, my concern about pellets is as follows (mind you, some of these do not involve TOP's).
1. Dryness. It's aboslutely and completely unnatural for a parrot to eat any type of dry food. Plant material has between 80% (branches) and 95% (fruits) moisture content. Even ground foragers eat mostly green seeds (seeds that are still in the plant, usually grasses) which have more water in them than the dry ones we feed (for example, seed heads -seeds still in the plant aka green seed- has about 50% while dried hulled barley, kept at 45% humidity will have a 10% water content) so pellets which are usualy at around 4% are incredibly dry as food for a parrot. Several of my AVs have told me that dehydration is a common problem with pet birds, a problem that often goes unnoticed by owners (not their fault, I couldn't even tell whether a bird is mildy dehydrated or not and I've cared for hundreds of them) and a chronic mild dehydration will lead to kidney problems (not my opinion, mind you, but a scientific fact).
2. Soy (TOPs don't have soy). I do not feed soy to any of my animals, birds, dogs or cats. Soy is a very cheap source of protein but it also has estrogenic properties as well as goitrogenic PLUS it's highly toxic in its natural state and needs to be treated in order to be consumed and, in my mind, anything that nature made poisonous should remain poisonous and not be consumed.
3. Nutritional values. They NEVER give you an exact value, everything is always less than or more than (and, R&E, TOPs doesn't give you exact values, either -I just looked it up).
4. Taste. Have any of you ever tasted them? I am not talking the colored fruity pebbles ones that have all kinds of bad things in them, I am talking the 'good' ones like Harrison's, they are BLAND BLAND BLAND!
5. Preservatives. No good unless they are absolutely natural but even those are not necessary if you make their food yourself and freeze it. And I am not even going to go into the artificial coloring and flavoring or the fact that most of them have ash in them -what's the benefit of feeding ash to a bird?
6. Added vitamins - The greatest majority of them add man-made vitamins to them, something we are now beginning to realize through studies done on humans (and we are the ultimate domesticated animal while parrots are still undomesticated) that are not as efficacious as the naturally-derived (and in perfect synergy) ones from fresh fruits and veggies. PLUS (and this is a BIG beef of mine with pellets), most of them add vitamin A and vitamin D3 as well as calcium to them which is NOT GOOD as vitamin A and vitamin D3 were never meant to be ingested in their final forms but for animals to eat the precursor (betacarotene for vit A) or make the chemical reaction (as in vit D3) and convert ONLY AS MUCH AS NEEDED -why? Because the body has no mechanism to get rid of the excess and as they are both fat soluble, they end up been stored in the liver in the form of fatty nodules -the precursors of the dreaded fatty liver disease (hepatic lipidosis) in parrots. And feeding them calcium along with vit D3 on a daily basis has another problem which was identified by canary breeders many years ago and it's the risk of the bird's body to lose the abilty to move calcium in and out of its bones (canary breeders learned this the hard way -I been breeding canaries for many years-; you need to supplement calcium with D3 five days and stop for two even with birds that are badly decalcified or you screw up the blood calcium AND the in and out of bones process). I know of a bird rescuer who feeds Harrison's and has had birds died of eggbinding which, supposedly, cannot happen while I breed canaries and have kept birds for over 40 years and have NEVER had a single case of eggbinding.
7. You can't add anything to them unless you soak them and, although you don't need the ability to do this when they are young, you will need it as they get older because not all supplements can be added to water.
My point is that pellets are, in most cases, just low quality grains that were processed, had man-made vitamins and minerals added to them and pressed into dangerously dry, bland little thingies but you can cook the same grains (well, not the same because when you cook them, you buy human-grade grains and not animal feed grains -and there is a BIG difference and I know because I used to work for a grain shipping company), add good veggies as well as flavorings to them and get a better product. You control the entire process from beginning to end as well as the result. And it's not hard at all. I shop once a week for them to ensure freshness in the grains, I cook them, mix them, freeze half, prepare the other half into the basic recipe, split into daily portions in freezer bags and freeze them. Then, everyday, I thaw one baggie and the following morning, I doctor the basic recipe adding more stuff and flavoring (spices, honey, lemon rind, etc) alternating one day spicy and one day fruity. I add certain supplements to the entire bowl and then add the specific ones that particular bird might need.
As to a 'balanced diet', well, you don't really think that the same pellet that is fed to, say, five different species would actually hit it right on the nail for all five, do you? For example, a medium size pellet would be for senegals (which can withstand higher protein with no problem), conures (which can take mid-protein), pionus (lower protein as they are mostly fruit eaters), IRNS, etc. so the 'balanced' diet they advertise is balanced for which one?
Another interesting note (but it's only anecdotal) is that there are less parrots that pluck in Australia than in the States and people are beginning to attribute this to the fact that most Australians feed seed and fruits and not pellets.