Cage Height Problems

[ceruleansilver]

Hello again guys! I have a few questions about modifying my parrot's cage. First, a picture of the cage in question. Pleas forgive the mess, Tengu is a messy bird.



As you can see, my senegal is living in a very tall cage. I hadn't even noticed how tall it was these three years because he was in a closet with a drawn back curtain. The closet had some fluorescent lighting, and I thought it made him feel secure, but in fact he has calmed quite a bit since I moved him out. Still, he has some misplaced territorial issues. He will not respect his potential roommate, a cockatiel, unless the cockatiel is well above Tengu. He also likes to dive off of it at people, and that is not acceptable behavior. I want to lower it so he doesn't have the height advantage.

The bottom line is, I want to cut off the legs of the cage just below the bars which support his tray.

Also, he has started chipping off the paint on the bars. Suggestions? I don't know the first thing about cutting metal or how to respond to the chipping. Part of me is tempted to throw it out and get a new one, but the appropriate dimensions would probably have me looking at another too tall cage which will require similar modifications.

[janetafloat]

I don't think the height is an issue - some people believe that a bird is dominant if it's higher than you but I don't think that's the case. Senegal's are a strong minded and potentially aggressive parrot though, and need training and socialisation. Also, a Senegal is not a suitable 'roommate' for a cockatiel, the cockatiel could come to serious harm.

[ceruleansilver]

I appreciate your concerns, but Tengu and the cockatiel would both be in cages and I wouldn't let them out at the same time. I am confident in my ability to keep them apart. As for Tengu's height issue, I have seen it in action. The cockatiel immediately becomes dominant to Tengu when higher, and Tengu is much more aggressive when he is higher then the cockatiel.

Edit: It may be something more subtle then simply dominance, it may be a sense of security. I know that getting higher makes a bird feel safer, and a bird on the wrong foot might not be so willing to challenge another. Regardless, it seems to be a good way of keeping them calm.

[Michael]

Get an aluminum cage. Good value and durability and no paint to chip. Also, a Senegal will never "respect" a Cockatiel. Senegals need a much much bigger bird to put them in their place. They'll attack anything their size or smaller on a dime. Just keeping a Senegal and another bird in separate cages in the same room is already potentially asking for trouble.

A lady on this forum had a Senegal escape its cage and kill her other birds. I know someone who had a Senegal fly to a Quaker's cage and bite its entire food off through the cage bars. "Respect" and "dominance" aren't the issue here... it's attacking and possibly killing the Cockatiel that are. I want you to give that some serious thought. Oh and my book deals with territorial and height related issues so consider getting a copy. They take a long time to reduce but I've found it to be possible.

[ceruleansilver]

Do you think I should hold onto this cage for now, or should I change it as soon as possible? Also, I hear what you guys are saying about the dangers. I'm afraid all I can do is assure that I will be taking precautions against that sort of tragedy. I cannot avoid their being in the same room in a two room apartment. I was planning on using some clamps for the doors, and move them out of the room while one is out. I figure that should prevent a direct confrontation.

[Michael]

If the bird is like really going at it all the time, change immediately. If it's just a little here and there, then do it when possible. Usually those habits don't go away. Ginger at Senegal Parrot the rescue went through 3 cages for one compulsive paint chewer till I finally convinced her to get an aluminum one. The bird still licks the bars but it does no harm to bird or cage this way.

As for mixed birds... I'd say if you double lock ALL doors on both cages and never keep both birds out in the same room, you're mostly safe. You definitely don't want to have 1 bird out and 1 caged in the same room. Be careful during the moments between taking either bird out and getting out of the room. Sometimes (usually the Senegal) will take the opportunity to dart over and attack the other bird. It's like that's what they spend all their time contemplating and seize the opportunity. That's what happened in most of the tragic cases I've heard. My Senegal takes every opportunity to land on my Cape's cage and torment him through the bars which is why I usually have to let both or neither out at the same time.

[ceruleansilver]

When I move things around it takes awhile before he gets comfortable enough to really have at the paint. Right now keeping him on his toes should hold him over till I can upgrade. I'd rather not go through three more powder coated cages to learn my lesson. Do you have any suggestions for cages? I find senegals to be uniquely challenging in their need for size of cage and smaller bar spacing then the "macaw" cages I find.

I am well versed in the plotting nature of my senegal. One day, I found him on top of the macaw's cage taunting the macaw as it cowered on the floor of the cage. It was comedic, but also a testament to Tengu's unbridled aggression. He's also viciously attacked my boyfriend, to the point where he debated going to the emergency room for stitches. It wasn't the first time he got attacked, and probably not the last. He's kind of out of control. I say kind of, simply because removing the stimulus (unwanted "intruders") renders him perfectly tame. I could not forget his potential for violence if I tried. I will definitely be double locking the doors and I will move one out of the room in a cage while the other is caged, so there will be hopefully no chance for such misbehavior.

Ugh. This bird. This. Bird.

So many problems he gives me.

[Michael]

I think this is an optimal cage for a Senegal Parrot (given the market not ideals) and what I've recommended and what I'll be getting when I replace Kili's cage:

http://www.kingscages.com/ProductDetail ... ID=ACA2522

And you would really do well to read my book. I dealt with all these Senegal issues with my bird and with loads of other Senegal owners I do consultations for. This stuff really works but it's not just 1 tip or a "1 week guaranteed" solution. It's a long term approach that ensures that in a few years you look back on the trouble you had with a smile knowing you don't have to go in and deal with bloody fingers and things like that. That said, we can change how a Senegal interacts with people. NOTHING we can do about interaction with another animal. That is why the only solution is physical separation.

[ceruleansilver]

Thank you so much for the recommendation. It's a beautiful cage, and I will start saving up for it now. But before I get the cage, I think I should get that book! Thank you very much for your time. I came into this thinking I had one problem, and I feel like I've come away with an entirely different understanding of the situation.

But I guess that's what taking care of parrots is all about.

[Michael]

Nobody said it's easy. I take that back. Nobody who actually deals with parrots as their own pets says it's easy. The stores, breeders, media all would like you to think otherwise. But when you're dealing with an animal that is nearly as intelligent as chimps yet can move in 3D and apply hundreds of pounds of crushing force... you're in for a challenge. I know some people don't like to apply a training approach. Some are successful that way while most others are not. Anyone who's tried to use a non-training approach and failed should definitely give it a shot. But my book is not just about training but an entire approach from sleep to diet.

BTW, here's my review of the big brother of the cage I recommended that I have for my Cape Parrot. The good and the bad. But I definitely wouldn't recommend the big version for a Sengal cause the bar spacing is too big. Oh and definitely get the dome top! It increases the internal space by like 30% at a fractional cost. The playtops are not only pointless (birds love top of their cage either way) but also lead to aggression. The ONLY upside to a playtop and really it's to having a non-barred top is that IF another bird lands atop the other's cage, they can't fight. But you can solve that with a blanket on top, a perch, or some other means. Having the extra inside space in the dome is totally worth it.