I do not believe in clipping a parrot unless there is a medical reason for it. It doesn't really do anything for their aggression (why would it? it's not as if handicapping her is going to endear you to her, right?) except that, as you pointed out, they cannot fly up to you - but, for that to happen, you would have to give her a very severe clip which is a VERY dangerous thing to do... especially if the bird has always been flighted (they fall like a rock to the ground!).
I have found that the best way to avoid getting bit is to prevent them from it by either placing an obstacle (as Wolf, suggested, putting a rolled up towel around your neck or wearing a hoodie, like my husband does), distracting them (a bit hard to do with a brand new bird) or avoiding them (keep your eye on her at all times and, if you see her flying to your shoulders, duck!). If one sticks to strict routines (so the bird can predict when something is going to happen), good husbandry (light schedule, diet, etc) and persists on been patient, the bird stops the aggression. It's as simple as that. The one thing one needs to keep in mind with parrots is that everything takes time -and I do mean EVERYTHING. People who want quick results should never get a parrot - it would be incredibly frustrating
This is what I found out about pellets:
1. Most of them use the cheapest source of protein available: soy (the only one that doesn't is Tops), a known allergen with both goitropic and estrogenic side-effects (I don't feed soy to any of my animals and, if you look at the more expensive and better dog and cat food, you will find that none of them has it).
2. Most of them don't use human grade ingredients (the only one that does it is Tops)
3. Most of them simply add man-made vitamins and minerals to them (the only one that doesn't is Tops) and, even leaving aside the synergy of natural combinations of them in a single piece of fruit and take them one by one, we now know that bodies do not utilize man-made as effectively as food-derived ones.
4. Not a single one of them gives you any exact nutritional values, everything is 'lower than', 'higher than' or 'min of this' and 'max of this'
5. They normally use bad sources of fiber (psyllium or chaff)
6. Their formula is identical to all species with just different sizes and we all know that an amazon' diet is not the same as Gray's diet
6. ALL OF THEM are DRY DRY DRY DRY!!!!! And this is the biggest problem I see because parrot diets in the wild have a water content of 85 to 95% - pellets are max 10% -a HUGE difference!
See, the thing is that because parrots are supposed to derive most of their hydration needs from their diet (all plant material) and because they are prey animals, nature hardwired them to drink very little and never often (they need to go to ground for this and it's a dangerous thing to do in the wild) so giving them a diet that is so dry would, inevitably, draw moisture from their own internal tissue which will, in time, create a kidney problem as the bird would live in a state of subclinical (mild) dehydration (we learned this the hard way by feeding cats dry kibble and having them drop like flies from renal failure).
Now, one could argue that one can feed a very limited amount of pellets and supplement their diet with fresh and soft food to 'balance' things out but, if you are going to have to shop, prepare and serve the a homemade food on a daily basis, why bother paying an arm and a leg for pellets which parrots normally don't even like?
I came up with gloop many years ago after having my first rescue bird diagnosed with high uric acid. The avian vet wanted to give her medicine for it (they always go the medicine route but I like to take a more natural approach) and, when I researched it (allopurinol), I discovered that it's VERY bad for their liver so I needed to come up with a diet that would reduce protein as well as increase hydration as well as allow me to add herbs that would help with her kidneys and gloop was the solution. It is, as pellets are, made out of whole grains but not ground and compressed and they are super infused with water as well as partially cooked (which increases digestibility). Then I use not only organic but also human grade ingredients and the frozen veggies provide natural vitamins and minerals instead of something made in a lab. I find that this is the closest I could come to their natural diets... We can't, of course, feed them exactly the same things the eat in the wild but we can feed them something that would resemble it if not in its actual form, at least the nutritional components of it. And pellets are not it.