lifesazoo33 wrote:This spring/summer will be our first one together, so he will be coming outside for a little bit (everyday is the plan). Since I live in the city and have seen hawks around, I am keeping him in a smaller cage with some mosquito netting (don't want him to get west nile). He loves looking outside so I think that he will have a blast!
I'm sure he will enjoy time outside.
Definitely look at Michael's blog post on parrots and winter because he talks about how he brings his parrots outside even in winter, depending on the temperature and whether or not the skies are overcast. You can't go wrong with natural sunlight.
lifesazoo33 wrote:What is the maximum amount of UVB that birds should recieve (that you have found in your research?)
Also, how can UVB be bad for them, when in the wild they would be exposed to it from the sunlight? (I don't know if you have come across this answer in the past)
Birds are exposed to UV-B light in the wild but you have to remember that the atmosphere filters out the vast majority of UV-B light. How much UV light reaches the Earth depends on the season and where you are located, but just as a generic statement in the summer about 6% of light is UV-A while only 0.5% or less is UV-B.
You also have to consider that unlike a reptile that will bask in direct sunlight for hours, birds spend some of their time in trees or other vegetation where there is shade.
The reason why exposing birds to
artificial UV-B light (as opposed to natural sunlight) is somewhat controversial is that there have only been a few studies on birds exposed to artificial UV-B light and those studies were on chickens and African greys. Since there's not a lot of research out there on parrots and
artificial UV-B lighting there's not a set standard of how strong the UV-B should be, how long the bird should be exposed, how far the light should be from their cage, etc. but it
is known that too much UV-B can cause corneal burns, cataracts, retinal burns, or sunburn to un-feathered areas.
Another thing to consider is that a bird is moving around, so its distance from the light varies. If you place the light over the top of the cage and the bird is at the bottom of the cage he might not be getting
any of the UV light. However, if he stands at the top of the cage and basks in the light he might be getting too much.
This is why I ended up going with FeatherBrite, because their bulb is 0.5% UV-B which is close to what sunlight contains and offers some exposure without me having to worry that it's too much. As I said, though, there's not a solid standard on what
is safe but the bulbs that offer 2%, 5%, or more contain more than they would be exposed to in the wild.
Whatever you choose be sure to monitor for signs of over-exposure. If you see your bird squinting, repeatedly rubbing its face against its body, or notice any redness around the eyes or on the skin then the exposure is too high.
The entire point of introducing artificial UV-B light is to allow the bird to synthesize vitamin D3 but keep in mind that if the bird is being fed a quality pellet such as Harrison's or Roudybush it is unlikely to be vitamin D3 or calcium deficient, anyway, because both of those pellets contain a vitamin D3 and calcium supplement.
The point of introducing an indoor source of UV-A is that a bird actually sees into the UV-A spectrum (they have four cones in their eyes as opposed to our three) and many birds have feathers that reflect UV light. Exposure to UV-A light indoors allows them to see colors that they would normally see in the wild but
don't see in captivity where UV light is filtered out by windows. For example, here is what a budgie might look like to another budgie (in natural sunlight or artificial UV-A light):
However, since there is no UV-A light indoors unless you specifically provide it, it's kind of like a bird indoors is "color-blind"---it can still see red through violet but its
forth cone that sees UV-A light is not being used.